Exploring Ladakh’s Eastern Frontier: The Changthang & High-Altitude Lakes Circuit

Exploring Ladakh’s Eastern Frontier: The Changthang & High-Altitude Lakes Circuit

Where sky mirrors the lake, nomads carry centuries of wisdom, and the earth steams with geothermal fire.

Welcome to the Changthang Plateau—Ladakh’s vast, wild, and windswept highland that stretches into the Tibetan plateau. This region is home to nomadic pastoralists, sacred hot springs, geothermal valleys, endangered wildlife, and Ladakh’s most iconic alpine lakes.

The Changthang & High-Altitude Lakes Circuit offers an unforgettable journey across pristine landscapes, borderland villages, and ecological marvels, while introducing you to SHG-led enterprises, local crafts, and traditional medicine practices like Sowa-Rigpa.

Circuit Overview

Leh → Hemis (detour) → Chumathang → Tso Moriri (Korzok) → Puga → Yaya Tso → Tso Kar → Hanle (optional) → Demchok (permit-based)

  • Duration: 5–7 days
  • Best Travel Season: May–October (post-snow, pre-freeze)
  • Ideal For: Nature lovers, cultural travelers, responsible tourists, photographers, researchers

Travel Permits: Required for Hanle and Demchok (Inner Line Permit + Army clearance)

Hemis – Spiritual Detour Before Entering the Wild

Start your journey with a short detour to Hemis, Ladakh’s largest and most famous monastery.

  • Attend early morning prayers amidst ancient scriptures and murals.
  • If timed right, witness the Hemis Tsechu Festival (June–July), featuring elaborate cham dances.
  • Visit nearby Hemis Shukpachan village to buy herbal teas and dried apricots from Herbal Roots SHG.

 Ideal place to stock up on high-altitude wellness teas before entering Changthang.

 Chumathang – Hot Springs & Medicinal Traditions

As you enter Changthang, stop at Chumathang, known for its natural hot springs and traditional Amchi (Sowa-Rigpa) healers.

  • Take a short walk along the steaming riverbank, where springs bubble beside the Indus.
  • Visit Amchi-led SHGs, offering herbal oil infusions, pain-relief balms, and tea blends.
  • Book a herbal bath or consultation with a registered Amchi for an authentic healing experience.

Keywords: Chumathang hot springs, Sowa-Rigpa Ladakh, herbal SHG Ladakh

Tso Moriri & Korzok – Jewel of Changthang

Perched at 15,075 ft, Tso Moriri is Ladakh’s largest high-altitude lake and a designated Ramsar Wetland Site.

Korzok Village

Korzok is the base for exploring the lake and home to the Changpa nomadic community.

  • Visit the Changpa Women’s Yak Wool SHG to see hand-spinning of pashmina and yak wool, carpet weaving, and felt-making.
  • Walk through Korzok Monastery, which overlooks the lake and houses murals depicting nomadic life.
  • Purchase dry chhurpi, handwoven shawls, and pashmina stoles—directly from the producers.

 June–Sept is best for witnessing nomadic migration and buying fresh wool products.

Note: Overnight near the lake in eco-friendly camps or SHG-run guesthouses—supporting local livelihoods.

Puga – Ladakh’s Geothermal Valley

Often described as the Yellowstone of India, Puga is an untamed valley filled with sulphur deposits, hot springs, steaming mud pools, and geothermal potential.

  • Currently being explored for green energy development.
  • Great spot for nature photographers and geology enthusiasts.
  • Visit nearby women’s SHG from Chumathang conducting day-trips for herb-foraging and seed preservation in the Puga highlands.

Keywords: Puga geothermal Ladakh, eco-tourism Puga, hot spring valley Ladakh

 Yaya Tso – The Hidden Crater Lake

Less visited than Tso Moriri or Tso Kar, Yaya Tso is a peaceful, heart-shaped lake surrounded by black rock formations.

  • Known for its pristine birdlife—bar-headed geese, Brahminy ducks, and migratory cranes.
  • No commercial activity—ideal for self-guided nature walks and reflection.
  • Near SHG grazing areas, where you can observe traditional sheep rearing and salt collection (seasonal).

  Best accessed via Mahe–Puga route, with packed meals from Korzok or Chumathang SHGs.

 Tso Kar – Salt Lake of Ghosts & Cranes

A stark, saline lake surrounded by white salt flats, Tso Kar is a paradise for birdwatchers and conservationists.

  • Spot kiangs (wild asses), Tibetan gazelles, and rare birds like the black-necked crane.
  • Camp at SHG-linked eco-camps, managed by former nomads.
  • Participate in eco-education walks, where guides explain the fragile wetland ecosystem and ongoing conservation.

 Ideal during July–September for photography, birdwatching, and learning about salt-harvesting practices.

Hanle (Optional Detour) – Stars, Silence & Science

If time and permits allow, Hanle is one of the most magical places in Ladakh.

  • Home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory (14,764 ft)—one of the highest in the world.
  • Stay in village-run guesthouses and enjoy community stargazing nights organized by youth collectives.
  • Visit Hanle Gompa, perched atop a ridge with panoramic views of the Tibetan borderlands.

Responsible Tip: Avoid light pollution, use eco-sanitation facilities, and follow wildlife conservation rules.

 Demchok – The Final Frontier (Restricted)

Located at the far edge of Changthang, Demchok lies right near the Line of Actual Control (LAC) with China.

  • Accessible only with special Army and district permits.
  • Known for its spring-fed lakes, Tibetan lineage culture, and historic trade route relevance.
    Ongoing efforts by NGOs and SHGs to revive wool processing and salt-based microenterprises in nearby villages.

Only visit with certified operators and respect military protocols.

 Suggested Itinerary (6–7 Days)

Day 1: Leh – Hemis – Chumathang (hot springs + overnight)
Day 2: Chumathang – Korzok (Tso Moriri)
Day 3: Explore Tso Moriri, nomadic interactions, SHG visits
Day 4: Korzok – Puga – Yaya Tso – Tso Kar
Day 5: Tso Kar – Hanle (if permitted)
Day 6: Hanle – Demchok (if allowed) or Return to Leh
Day 7: Buffer day for weather, acclimatization, or extra interaction

 Responsible Travel Tips

  •  Always travel with valid permits; respect Army checkpoints and local laws.
  •  Stay with community-led eco-camps and SHG-run guesthouses where possible.
  • Do not disturb wildlife—Changthang is home to endangered species.
  •  Carry your own waste, solar chargers, and reusable water bottles.
  •  Buy woollen goods directly from SHGs—they support nomadic women’s livelihoods.

What You’ll Take Home

  •  Hand-spun yak wool scarves and carpets from Korzok
  •  Natural salt crystals and herbal oils from Puga and Chumathang
  •  Stories of stargazing monks, migrating flocks, and geothermal fires
  •  Unfiltered, awe-inspiring photographs of India’s most remote terrain

 Want Help Planning Your Journey?

We offer:  Trail Maps |  Verified SHG Homestays |  Local Product Outlets |  Permit Support |  Nature Guide Bookings

Contact us to explore the Changthang circuit responsibly—with the people who call it home.

 

Discover Homestays

Experience the heart of Leh by staying with local families.
Immerse yourself in Ladakhi culture, traditions, and warm hospitality.
Book your homestay and explore the region like never before.

Discover Local Experiences

From pottery workshops to Ladakhi cooking sessions, uncover the authentic experiences that Leh offers. Dive into the local culture with hands-on activities that will leave lasting memories.

Discover Monasteries

Leh is home to some of the most stunning and serene monasteries in the world. Visit these sacred sites, learn about their rich history, and experience the spiritual calm of Ladakh.